Suiting 101: What you need to know when buying a suit
Photo by: themonsieur.com
By Brady Walter // Staff Writer
A suit – you do not want to be labeled one, but you certainly want to wear the hell out of one. Choosing the details of a suit is often left to the professionals. Let me give you a glimpse into the mind of a professional suit salesman and go through the perfect suit for you, piece by piece.
The first thing you need to think about when purchasing a suit is “What do I need it for?” For most men, it is for work. (Going forward, every reference to a suit is a standard 2-piece suit, which includes a pair of Trousers, and a Suit Jacket). They work in an office in a city where people typically wear a suit and tie four days (now-a-days Friday is basically a day off when it comes to looking good), out of the workweek.
As with every great invention, let’s start from the engine if you will. You will notice that on every single suit jacket made, there are three types of “vents” that are displayed on the back of the jacket. There is a “single-vent” which is a single slit down the middle of the jacket over the rear, which is the more traditional styling of a suit. In addition, there is a “double-vent” or commonly referred to as “side-vents” option. This is when there are two slits, one being on the left and one being on the right, to create a wider opening which allows for more ease of motion due to its origins in horse-riding. This is a more practical as well as more functional look. It also helps to eliminate some of the girth some men might have in the rear, so if you are a wider man, the side-vent jacket option will suit you better. Lastly, and most unfortunately, there is a “no-vent” option as well which means there is no slit at all in the jacket. This is a last resort when it comes to selecting a suit, as it provides the least amount of motion due to the structure of the jacket and just shows an utter lack of style for any occasion. It is an existing design, but please, if you are buying your first suit for a job or are starting to grow your wardrobe, a no-vent suit is not the way to go.
Next, we move to the front of the jacket with the lapels. Lapels are the pieces of fabric that drape over a man’s chest and collarbone when wearing a suit. For you first time suit buyers out there, don’t worry – you will be speaking my language by the end of the semester. For this article, we will stick to two types of lapels: notch and peak. A notch lapel is the more conservative and traditional of the two, and you will find this type of lapel is suited for any occasion whatsoever. From boardroom, to a wedding, to a night out, this is a perfectly acceptable and viable option to wear with confidence. Now, for you brash young hot shots out there who want to take the world by the horns, the peak Lapel will be the lapel for you. This lapel peaks out at the top near the shoulders making it the flashier of the choices. The peak is also acceptable for most work situations; however, it was traditionally made for more of a “formal” look, which you will see more often on tuxedos. Peak lapels are also a viable option when wearing a suit and give anyone a little extra something when it comes to style.
What is a jacket without pockets? There are once again several types of pocket options ranging in number and style, from slanted, to straight and even no pockets. Gentlemen, you will not own a suit with “besom” or “pike” pocket. If you learn nothing at all from me while reading, you will have learned to not get besom pockets on your suit or sport coat jackets. A flap pocket is what you will see if you were to walk into Nordstrom’s or and other department store that sells suits. A flap is when there is a fabric draping over the pockets on the jacket. This is meant to do so as it covers the bulge of the pocket due to you putting your chap-stick (which every guy should always carry), or even your keys. This is the traditional look that once again can be worn on any occasion and is a viable option for any activity you might partake in. The flap pocket is most commonly paired with the notch lapel. See the theme here? Traditional pairs with traditional, and so on. Next up – “hacking.” No, not the thing you do with your mother’s garden and certainly not the thing your friend says he can do to make a quick buck via the computer. Hacking pockets are the exact same as flap pockets, but they are slanted on an angle. Why, you ask? Hacking and side vents originated from horse riding. When people rode a horse with their single-vent, flap pocketed jacket, they could not control the horse due to having one slit in the back with zero range of motion while having the pocket rip almost every time they rode due to the pulling of the fabric. Low-and-behold, hacking pockets were invented and have stuck around ever since. Hacking pockets are now more of a fashion look, but certainly acceptable for work or casual wear of your suit as well.
Flap with ticket. “Flap with ticket?” He thought to himself. What could “flap with ticket” possibly mean? A flap with ticket pocket is when you have a standard flap pocket with a smaller additional pocket on the right side of the jacket. This pocket comes from the 1800’s in France, as ticket riders needed an extra pocket to hold their train ticket with easy access. This style has regained popularity due to its fashion forward, or “cool” appeal, with the appeal being that it is different. In addition to flap with ticket, there is also hacking with ticket, which needs no further explanation. With so many types of pockets out there, it’s impossible to list them all. Be on the look out for part two to “Suiting 101” to further explore what I find to be one of the coolest things on earth.
Remember – Fashion isn’t clothing. Fashion isn’t style. Fashion is character.